Notre Dame de Cléry
Notre Dame de Cléry
Although it’s only an hour or so away from Amboise and although it’s been on the bucket list since forever, what with two years of Covid and a winter that seemed to go on forever, the time was never quite right. To misquote the Bible, the spirit was willing but the flesh was weak.
However, on a rare day in February, when the sun not only came out but stayed out, it was off in the jalopy with a thermos* and we finally got to Notre Dame de Cléry-Saint-André.
The church, or to be more accurate the basilica, is an absolute must for history buffs.
Only the pope can magic a church into a basilica. A Papal Bull issued by Pope Leo XIII in 1894 raised the church’s status. Traditionally, basilicas were built over the bones of martyrs. Notre Dame de Cléry was given the accolade because of its devotion to Saint Mary.
According to legend, in 1280, a farmer ploughing his fields uncovered a wooden statue of the Virgin and Child. In 1309 Philippe IV built a church to house the statue, but died before it was finished. He went there in 1325 to see how work was progressing as did Philippe VI in 1332 and 1340.
Virgin and Child, Notre Dame de Cléry
Pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela who stopped off to worship here reported witnessing many miracles. One certainly occurred in 1428 when the English razed the Church during The Hundred Years War (more accurately The Hundred Years Invasion), the statue survived as did the square bell tower.
The Church became even more famous in 1428 when it was featured in the nursery rhyme Le Carillon de Vendôme. (My friends, what's left for this gentle Dauphin? Orleans, Beaugency, Notre-Dame de Cléry, Vendôme, Vendôme!). When Henry V occupied Paris, the dauphin Charles (VII) was disinherited. To show public support for him, bells of the churches rang, and still ring, a carillon three times a day.
Joan of Arc passed through Cléry twice. The first was on her way to rid Orléans of the invaders. By the time she returned the church was rubble. The dauphin Louis (Louis XI), who knew Joan well, made a vow that if he won at the siege of Dieppe (he did) he would rebuild the church. He kept his promise.
View from oratory
He had a small oratory built in the sacristy so that he could attend Mass through a small window without being seen. In 1465 he declared Notre Dame de Cléry a chapel royal. In 1472 Louis spent time here overseeing the building of his church and of his elaborate gilded bronze statue. When he died in 1483 he left instructions he was to be buried here not in the Basilica of St Denis, Paris where traditionally all French kings were buried.
When she died a few months later, his devoted widow Queen Charlotte of Savoy was buried next to him. Their son, Charles VIII, requested his heart be buried near his parents. It was discovered in 1873 during excavations.
Resting place of Charles VIII’s heart
In 1562, during the wars of religion (Catholics v. Protestants) the king's tomb and the statue of the Virgin were destroyed by Protestants following the capture of Orléans. Lead from the coffins was melted down.
In 1622, Louis XIII (son of Henry IV) commissioned a new tomb for his ancestor (destroyed during the French Revolution) and a new statue of the Virgin.
Who buried the original statue of the Virgin? Was it to protect it from the Romans although that seems unlikely given that they incorporated Christian icons into their own. Also, would a wooden statue last from Roman times?
Crypt of Queen Charlotte and Louis XI
Why is there no statue of Queen Charlotte of Savoy? Not only did Louis XI ignore her in life he ignored her in death preferring to add a dog to his memorial rather than honour the girl he married when she was nine. All that’s left of poor Charlotte is her jaw in the crypt**. Found in 1889 by the parish priest we are lucky to have that.
Lastly, why did it take the Vatican six hundred years to honour Notre Dame de Clery?
* The flask of coffee turned out to be surplus to requirements. Leaving Notre Dame de Clery-St. André we decided to visit another of the towns mentioned in the nursery rhyme. We fantasised that that in Beaugency we would stumble across a perfect little salon de thé which would serve perfect pots of Earl Grey tea with lemon and home made cakes. Bingo! Enter Le Comptoir and its delightful patroness. Perfect end to a perfect Spring day.
** A friendly Volunteer opened the crypt and the door to the original stairs leading to the oratory. It still has its tiny window looking down over the altar.
Post by Pamela, photography by Mark.
