Toussaint in Amboise
This year, on 1 November, we were delighted to have a reason, a very good reason, to go native. We felt very French as we joined the throng of people who pass our window every year bearing gigantic pots of beautiful chrysanthemums on their way to the old, very old*, cemetery in Amboise.
A friend, Liliane Truchot, told us about Jehanne d’ Orliac** a once famous but now forgotten writer who lived in Amboise. When we found her grave there we promised ourselves we would return at Toussaint to pay our respects. And so we did.
Then (it always surprises us who reads our blogs) Beatrice from Miami USA, researching the family of Emir el Kader, contacted us about Maria Riahi*** who rests in peace in the same cemetery.
The Emir, an open minded man, was very interested in other religions. When he was held in honourable confinement in Château Amboise, he often visited the Roman Catholic Church of St. Denis. Marie was his wife. Born Muslim, she had converted to Catholicism. Hence her grave. It was once the case, perhaps still is, one had to be a Catholic to be buried there.
As we knew Beatrice might not find it easy to find the grave we offered to take her and her husband. To say a good time was had by all in a cemetery sounds odd but we did. It’s not at all depressing. It’s vibrant. Thanks go to all who take such good care of it.
We told Beatrice we would pay our respects to Marie at Toussaint. And so we did.
On the way to the cemetery we showed Beatrice the crystal chandelier the Emir gave to the lovely old Roman Catholic church of St. Denis. That surely must be a first. The Church was closed preparing for Patrimoine the following day but as Beatrice had come so far and was so intrigued we were allowed in.
1 November, Toussaint – tous les saints – all the saints – is a public honouring of the dead. In 835AD it was, literally, to honour famous saints. Later it was extended to commemorate all saints, especially those who do not have their own saint’s day.
The correct day to honour family, friends, all loved ones is, in fact, All Souls Day, the 2nd November but after the end of World War One, the President asked France to pay respects to those who died for the country by laying flowers on their graves. As the 1st was a public holiday and as chrysanthemums were the only flowers available in November, the tradition of laying flowers on the graves of all loved ones took root.
* 1785
** See our blog: Joan Orliac of Amboise
*** See our blog: Abdel el-Kader
By Pamela Shields BA History of Art. Images by Mark Playle.
Read more about some of the other amazing women of Amboise.
Out of the Shadows
The Ladies of Royal Chateau Amboise
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